Backyard
Berry Plants
Specializing in Organically Grown Blueberry, Blackberry, and Red Raspberry Plants
Strawberry plants
Certified Organic by
This page has all the pricing, ordering, planting and care
information about strawberries.
To print our order form, use the navigation bar above, or
click here
All strawberry plants we sell are grown organically and do not contain any Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs). They are grown from stock on our farm, or from seed (the alpine cultivars), and are certified disease free by the Indiana DNR Division of Entomology and Plant Pathology.
Strawberries have a separate shipping schedule from our larger potted stock. Click here (Determine Shipping Costs) to go down the page and see the tables you can use to determine your shipping costs for strawberries.
Not sure of your USDA hardiness zone?
This link will take you to the
USDA
planting zone map.
Once there, use your zip code to precisely determine your
hardiness zone.
Cultivars and Prices are listed below
(all plants for 2012 are $3.50 each).
For Shipping
Costs on Strawberries, click here
For Planting and Care
Guide, click here
Strawberry Cultivars Available for 2012
Alexandria and Yellow Wonder are available for shipping starting
in April.
Seascape and all June-bearing cultivars will be ready for shipping
starting in mid-May.
All strawberry cultivars are self-pollinating.
Day-neutral
strawberry cultivars
All plants $3.50 each
(3"-4" pot)
Alexandria
red Alpine strawberry
Available for spring shipping
Fragaria vesca (OP seed grown)
Heirloom cultivar.
Alexandria produces long, red berries of exceptional
flavor, averaging 1" long by 1/2" wide. The plants bloom from early spring through fall, and
with protection from frosts, into early winter (yield will get
smaller as cooler weather and shorter days urge the plant to go
dormant). The plants are runnerless, forming a foot wide plant
at maturity with many crowns (which can be separated for starting
new plantings). Alexandria does well in pots and small garden areas, and
with no runners, one doesn't have to worry about it spreading into
other locations. Like most Alpines, Alexandria is very disease
resistant, and I have never had to use any organic controls on it or
Yellow Wonder. Best yields have been obtained in raised beds
and potted growing.
USDA hardiness zones 4-9
Yellow Wonder
yellow Alpine strawberry
Available for spring shipping
Fragaria vesca (OP seed grown)
Heirloom cultivar
This is the first Alpine I ever grew, over 12
years ago. It is one of the most flavorful strawberries I (and
my kids) have ever eaten. As they have gotten older and more
adept at picking berries, it is a rare treat for me to actually find
one on the plants they have picked over. When fully ripe, they
are extremely sweet and aromatic (like most alpines), with hints of
sweet pineapple as an undertone. Berries are longer than they
are wide, averaging about 1" long by 1/2" wide, and are prolific on
a mature plant. Mature plants get over a foot wide,
are runnerless, and yield from mid-spring through the late fall.
They will stop flowering when temps get over 86 degrees F, so a
little shade in the hottest parts of summer will keep them producing
for most of your growing season. If they do get too hot, they
will resume flowering when daytime temps consistently fall below 86.
Excellent for pots, square foot gardens, and hanging baskets.
Plants are long-lived, and crowns can be divided for propagation
after a few years.
USDA hardiness zones 3-9
Seascape
Available for shipping starting mid to late May
Developed in 1991 by the University of California, Seascape has
had great success outside the Golden State. Of the day-neutral
introductions that I've trialed on our farm, Seascape has
consistently had the sweetest flavor for a full-sized, red
strawberry, and better production. Berries are large and deep
red. I've had Seascape in production on our farm for
over 8 years now, and I can't see replacing it with any other
cultivars. Like all day-neutral strawberries, a little shade
in the high heat of summer really helps keep production and fruit
quality at its highest.
USDA hardiness zones 4-9
Fresca
Limited Availability for spring shipping
Fragaria ananassa (open pollinated)
Fresca is a seed grown, day-neutral strawberry that is runnerless.
Fruit is medium sized, bright red, very sweet, and produced from
late spring through the fall in waves. Plants are compact, and
do well in pots, square-foot gardens, or narrow beds. Fresca
has a lower overall yield than Seascape, but also has very few
disease issues, and the foliage has always looked very nice and
green during the growing season. The important aspect to seed
grown, open-pollinated plants is that they are all genetically distinct, which means
each plant has the potential to stand out against particular pests,
or to prosper during challenging years. The careful gardener
will note these differences, and select from the most outstanding
plants for the enlargement of their gardens. When I sow the
seeds, I select only the most vigorously growing seedlings for
transplanting to cell plugs. After a month of growing in the
trays, I pick again only the fullest and most lively of the plug
grown plants to move into their final sale container. Fresca has
performed well for me here on our farm, and I'm happy to add it to
the list of cultivars that may add to your diversity of strawberry
growing.
USDA hardiness zones 3b-8b
"June-bearing" (early summer) cultivars
All plants $3.50 (4" to quart pot)
Cultivars are listed in sequence of ripening
Annapolis
early season
Available for shipping starting mid to late May
Originally bred in Nova Scotia, in 1984, Annapolis is a very
early ripening strawberry that I have found (here at our farm) to
have better flavor and larger size than Earliglow . Berries
are consistently large throughout the picking cycle, and have
a bright red color and rich sweetness, especially in warmer springs.
Annapolis is vigorous and cold hardy, and has been the most
reliable early strawberry I have grown. Noted for its
resistance to red stele.
USDA hardiness zones 3-8
Honeoye
early mid-season
Available for shipping starting mid to late May
Released in 1979, in New York, Honeoye is still one of the most
widely planted early season strawberries in the Midwest. The
simple reason is flavor and production: large, red, sweet
berries on very vigorous plants that runner well. It is also
one of the most winter hardy cultivars available.
I have found that all strawberries perform better in raised beds,
especially if your native soil is on the heavier, clayey side.
With heavy soils, Honeoye tends to be less sweet and lower yielding.
The lighter, fluffier, better drained soils in raised beds offer the
best production and flavor for Honeoye.
USDA hardiness zones 3-8
Northeaster
early mid-season
Available for shipping starting mid to late May
This 1996 USDA release has very good disease resistance coupled
with fine flavored, sweet berries, and above average yield.
Northeaster berries run medium to medium large in size, and are
bright red and firm. This is a very vigorous berry plant, with
strong growth and good runner production. This cultivar has
resistance to Verticillium, red stele , leaf scorch, and
powdery mildew.
USDA hardiness zones 4-8
Cavendish
mid-season
Available for shipping starting mid to late May
From Nova Scotia in 1990, Cavendish has Annapolis as one of its
parents. Very cold hardy cultivar, it also produces large,
dessert quality strawberries that are firm and very sweet. My
kids love to pick these and carry them around as they eat them, and
there is something just wonderful about biting into a huge, sweet
strawberry. Cavendish also takes a longer time to ripen its
whole crop, so you can get fresh strawberries over a little longer
period with them than most other cultivars. With proper
feeding and irrigation, large berry size remains consistent during
the long harvest cycle. Plants also runner strongly, and have
a good resistance to red stele and Verticillium.
USDA hardiness zones 3-7
Sparkle
late-season
heirloom
Available for shipping starting mid to late May
Bred by J.H. Clarke of Rutgers University, NJ, in 1942.
Sparkle used to be a leading late-season cultivar, and like many
old-time cultivars, it had great flavor and high yields. But
the berry size was considered too small compared to new
introductions, so Sparkle was relegated to small growers who still
served what the local people wanted. Sparkle's berry size is
considered small to medium by modern standards, and the fruit is
medium firm with a rich, aromatic strawberry flavor. The yield
is also very high, usually out-producing modern cultivars in yield
per area. As Sparkle has a powerful runner potential, so one needs
to keep the planting area thinned of excessive new plants.
This will keep overall yield in the high range, as overcrowding of
plants can cause a decrease in yield (strawberries are often their
own worst weed). Sparkle has resistance to some strains of red
stele, but I have had no issues with any disease when they have been
grown in raised beds or large pots.
USDA hardiness zones 3-8
Shipping
Rates for
Potted Strawberry Plants
Start with Chart 1.
To determine your shipping rate, please locate the first 3
numbers of your zip code in Chart 1 below. This will
give you your shipping zone in relation to our nursery.
Next, take your zone number to Chart 2, and use it to
determine what it would cost to get a package to your door.
All Rates Are Per Package
Chart 1: Determine your shipping zone
by using the first three numbers of your zip code.
(the ship zone is NOT your USDA hardiness zone)
| Your zip | Zone | Your Zip | Zone | Your Zip | Zone | Your Zip | Zone |
| 000-003 004-005 010-045 046-047 048-079 080-083 |
NA 5 5 6 5 4 |
395 396-399 400-406 407-409 410 411-412 |
5 4 2 3 2 3 |
609 610-616 617-619 620-623 624-629 630-634 |
2 3 2 3 2 3 |
821 822 823-832 833 834 835-838 |
6 5 6 7 6 7 |
| 084-129 130-132 133-136 137-179 180-181 182 |
5 4 5 4 5 4 |
423-424 425-426 427 428-429 430-438 439 |
2 3 2 NA 3 4 |
635 636-639 640-649 650-652 653 654-655 |
4 3 4 3 4 3 |
839 840-847 848-849 850-854 855 856-858 |
NA 6 NA 7 6 7 |
| 183 184-241 242 243-249 250-253 254 |
5 4 3 4 3 4 |
440-443 444-445 446-449 450-455 456-457 458-462 |
3 4 3 2 3 2 |
656-675 676-679 680-687 688-703 704 705-709 |
4 5 4 5 4 5 |
859-860 861-862 863-864 865-880 881 882-883 |
6 NA 7 6 5 6 |
| 255-259 260 261 262-288 289 290-306 |
3 4 3 4 3 4 |
463-466 467-479 480-495 496-516 517-519 520 |
3 2 3 4 NA 3 |
710-712 713-714 715 716-729 730-739 740-746 |
4 5 NA 4 5 4 |
884 885 886-888 889-929 930-931 932-933 |
5 6 NA 7 8 7 |
| 307 308-319 320-349 350-355 356-358 359-369 |
3 4 5 4 3 4 |
521 522-524 525 526-538 539-564 565-567 |
4 3 4 3 4 5 |
747 748-749 750-754 755 756-784 785 |
5 4 5 4 5 6 |
934 935-938 939-960 961 962-966 970-976 |
8 7 8 7 8 8 |
| 370-374 375 376-379 380-381 382-385 386-394 |
3 4 3 4 3 4 |
568-569 570-571 572-587 588-597 598-599 600-608 |
NA 4 5 6 7 3 |
786-797 798-799 800-810 811-816 817-819 820 |
5 6 5 6 NA 5 |
977-979 980-987 988-994 |
7 8 7 |
Chart 2: Your Shipping cost per package
| Ship Zone | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
| 4 plant box | $13 | $14 | $16 | $17 | $19 | $21 | $24 |
| 8 plant box | $15 | $16 | $18 | $20 | $22 | $24 | $27 |
| 16 plant box | $17 | $19 | $22 | $24 | $27 | $29 | $35 |
| 24 plant box | $20 | $22 | $25 | $27 | $32 | $35 | $42 |
| 32 plant box | $23 | $25 | $28 | $30 | $38 | $41 | $48 |
Plant boxes listed show the maximum number of plants per box. So an 8-plant box could hold between 5-8 strawberry plants, and a 24-plant box could hold between 17-24 plants.
Planting and Care for Strawberries
Strawberries can be an enjoyable berry to grow.
Of course, anytime a juicy, sweet fruit grows close to the ground,
one should take some extra precautions. Most all of the
diseases associated with strawberry production can be controlled
with cultural methods (no spraying).
In my experience with strawberries, these are the key factors to
reduce leaf and fruit diseases:
Air circulation
Wider planting distances
Elevated or raised bed planting
Drip irrigation / soaker hoses
Low nitrogen, organic fertilizers
Index of Care Topics
Where to Plant Strawberries
How Far Apart to Plant Strawberries
Soil Amendments for Strawberries
Fertilizing Strawberries
Winter Care
Helpful Products for Growing Strawberries Organically
Where to plant your organic strawberries
Raised Beds
I'd have to say that raised bed, intensive growing has
done more for my strawberry production than any other action I've taken.
The soil is lighter in a raised bed, and the benefit of that in my
Midwestern climate is that the usually heavy spring rains drain away
quickly. This keeps soil pathogens from getting a foothold on
the strawberries, and also eliminates standing water in the growing
area. Keeping the soil moist and not sodden is very important
for insuring consistent, heavy yields from your strawberry plants.
I'd suggest at least a 6" above grade height for your raised beds.
Planters and Large Pots
Potted culture has also worked well for day-neutral cultivars, and I
have a number of different pot sizes with which I work. These
have allowed me to move them around so they can get shade or more
sun when they need it, or rolled into a cold frame or greenhouse
when weather gets frosty in the fall, thereby extending my picking
season.
Raised Bed Soils and Irrigation
There are many recipes for mixing up raised bed planting soils.
Most work well, and I'd suggest that the importance is that they have a good amount of organic
matter (like sphagnum peat; aged, weed free compost; leaf mold),
upwards of 40-60% of the total volume. Since you don't
cultivate in a raised bed, you can put down a good drip line under
the mulch. Using drip lines gets water to the roots, and keeps
it off of the berries and leaves, reducing the chance of diseases.
Some growers I know have erected a frame over their strawberry beds,
which is open on the sides, but has a span of clear grow film over the
top, to disperse rain water away from the bed. These plants
rarely get any water on their leaves, and the plants look great and
yield very well, with no sprays of any kind.
The raised bed offers increased air circulation (it is above the
ground); increased drainage during wet times of year (which are
usually the times the June-bearing cultivars are trying to make
their berries); and a chance to use drip lines effectively in a
non-cultivated, mulched growing area.
How Far Apart to Plant Organic Strawberries
For June-bearing strawberries, I plant into a raised bed that is
no wider than 4 feet. The spacing is 12" O.C. (on center), and
I sometimes use staggered rows. For some cultivars, like
Cavendish and Cabot, which make very large to huge berries, I will
go a little wider, to 16" O.C. I've also found that to be a
good spacing for Seascape (a day-neutral). The Alpines I space 12"
apart in a bed. I also keep runners pruned out of all the
day-neutral beds, and divide their crowns every 3-4 years, depending
upon the cultivar and size of plant.
For June-bearing strawberries I allow only 4-5 runners per mother
plant to root into the bed. These rooted plantlets are
transplanted to new beds the following year, keeping the spacing and
area clean for the June-bearing plants. These mother plants
can be replaced every 3 years (at which point they have reached
their maximum potential, and will decline in yield) with new 1 year
plants generated as runners the previous year.
What to add to the soil when planting organic strawberries
When planting strawberries into a raised bed or planter, I like
to add a few amendments to help with onward growth and production of
the plant. Regardless of the type of strawberry (June-bearing
or day-neutral), I always add these amendments when planting.
For each plant, add a Tbsp of soft rock phosphate, 2 Tbsp kelp meal,
and 4 Tbsp alfalfa meal. If you have it, you can also add a
cup of compost or a half cup of worm castings per plant. Most
of these amendments do more directly for the beneficial soil
organisms than the strawberry plant, but then the old saw, "Healthy
soil, healthy plant" is quite true in my experience.
I mentioned low nitrogen fertilizers above, and that is important,
because it is very easy to get too much available nitrogen in the
soil. When this happens, plant growth accelerates to
un-healthy rates, and becomes very accommodating for bacterial,
fungal, and insect pests. The plants natural immune system is
essentially compromised during exposure to high nitrogen
fertilizers, which is why so many toxic sprays are needed in
chemical growing of fruits.
Fertilizing Strawberries
I no longer use granular fertilizers on our crops. I have
switched all of our berries and veggies over to a liquid fertility
schedule. While this is more involved, I have found it to be
quite worthwhile as regards the quality and yield of the crop.
For strawberries, I follow the same mix ratio as is listed on our
Plant Care page. I'll list it here as well:
To 1 gallon water, add 2 Tbsp Neptune's Harvest (2-4-1),
1/2 Tbsp liquid kelp, and 1/2 Tbsp blackstrap molasses (yes, from
the grocery store).
I apply this every week during flowering in spring, then when fruit
set begins, I drop the Neptune's from the mix, and apply just kelp
and molasses every 2 weeks until fruiting is done (for
June-bearing). After fruiting is done, I give them the full
mix once a month until October, or the daytime temps drop below 50
consistently.
For day-neutrals, which fruit all during spring, summer, and fall,
they need more nutrient support to their soils. I feed them
twice monthly during their fruiting season, and that keeps the berry
size up, and the blossoms coming. When fall comes, I stop
giving them any fertilizer, unless I'm doing season extension in a
cold-frame or greenhouse, and then they get the fertilizer brew once
every three weeks into early winter.
Winter Care
Strawberries got their name because straw was a great mulch for
them. I don't like to use non-organic straw on berries
(especially berries that are resting on the straw), but they do need
a mulch over the winter to protect them from desiccating freezes.
I've used chopped leaves, but wasn't happy with the yields where I used
it, and the small bits of leaf stick to the berries and plants,
creating wet spots that don't dry well. That led to increased
disease presence in the bed. Grass clippings are out, and hay
too, as they are just packed with weed seeds. I have had good
luck using pine bark mini-nuggets as a mulch around the
strawberries, as it dries fast and doesn't soak up water. However,
it is too heavy to use as a mulch over the plants, and too
expensive.
What I use currently is a 3 oz. (or a doubled 1.5 oz) frost/freeze
blanket. It comes in a handy roll, and lasts a few
winters if you roll it up promptly when spring arrives.
Survival and flower bud initiation has been excellent, and I never
feel like I have to rush out to get the straw off during a wet,
rainy period in late winter. Very easy to use, and the blanket
protects the plants from winter exposure.
I think, if one were looking for an environmentally friendly cover,
a few layers of burlap would work, especially if you had a good
cover of snow for most of the winter.
Helpful Products for
growing Strawberries Organically
Your hands are best, and keeping the plants thinned out so they
get enough air flow around them. But, sometimes all the work
and planning don't pan out, and you need to do something to save a
crop or stop a disease from wiping out your plants. Healthy
soil really is your best defense, but things with weather and
temperatures can occur that will afflict even the healthiest plants.
When I know some nasty, cold, rainy weather is going to roll in on
my strawberries when they are loaded with ripening fruit, or trying
to bloom, I have used Neem oil to great effect. It is sold
under different labels, I use one called Trilogy (sold by Ohio Earth
Food). Neem oil is non-toxic to most animals (as an oil, it
does kill scale, mites, and soft bodied insects), though it does act
as a repellent for most scarab beetles (like the Japanese beetle).
It is also a very effective fungicide and bactericide, and it is for
these properties I use it. Different brands and formulations
have varying application rates, but generally it is once a week
during the times you expect problems.
There are some other OMRI listed products with which I have less
experience: Serenade, Actinovate, GreenCure (a sodium bicarb based
fungicide), and Oxidate (a hydrogen dioxide based fungicide). Ohio
Earth Food and Johnny's Select Seeds offer these products.
Strawberry Types
There are two types of strawberry that we sell: day-neutral
and June-bearing.
These descriptions refer to the affect day length has on when the
strawberries begin flowering.
For Day-neutral strawberries, as the name implies, day length has no
effect on when the plant begins to flower. Day-neutral
strawberries are governed by temperature as to when they start, and
stop, flowering. Professional growers in California have found
that day-neutrals stop flowering when day/night temperatures
exceed 86F/79F
June bearing, or short day, strawberries, begin flowering in the mid to late spring, when day-length is still less than 14 hours. They tend to have a concentrated cropping time, and then a period of vigorous vegetative growth when they increase their crown size and send out runners.
Shipping Restrictions
We currently have no shipping restrictions on our strawberry
plants within the continental U.S.
No shipments to HI or AK at this time.
Hope to be adding pictures here in 2012!